早晨下毛毛雨,步行去円山公园,沿途还有多个庙宇,都进去看了看。円山公园很大,清晨的公园游人很少,空气清新。在广场上,有许多露宿的人,铺一张小凉席,睡袋里一钻,各别人还在酣睡不醒。也不知是没有找到酒店?还是占据有利地位?日本人喜欢在樱花树下,阖家席地而坐,共进烧烤盛宴。广场周边很多简易商铺,还没有开始营业,把美丽的樱花环境弄成市场一样。但这可能就是日本特有樱花文化,看着人们樱花树下,兴高采烈的聚餐情景,也会被深深地感染着。
円山公园是京都最有名的赏樱地之一,公园有一棵最大的樱花树,在池塘边的高处显著位置上,很壮观。它是樱花中的珍贵品种“枝垂樱”,迄今已经有200多年的历史了。
円山公园实际也是一个寺庙的聚集地,这里的庙宇和庵很多,有的庙宇像座宫殿,宏伟壮观,有的就像住家的平房,狭小简单。如若想在公园里详细的游览,至少需一上午时间。我们走马观花的基本全部走遍公园,从青莲寺门进入,再到南门出去。
然后又去平安神宫,円山公园距离平安神宫很近,步行10分钟左右。进入神宫外面红色的牌坊,左侧是京都图书馆,右侧是京都博物馆,正前方就是平安神宫。在这里因时间关系,只做了短暂的停留,侧面的收费区域没有进去,错过了里面樱花美景。
急忙赶回酒店,杜带领我们去一个边远区域,参观神护寺。开车大约一小时左右,这里很少有游客,是在一个山坡之上,需爬坡上去。购票进入,里面全部是木结构庙宇,一看就是历经沧桑古建筑。庙内也有樱花,但因山上气温低,樱花只有花蕾,还没有绽放。这里树木茂密,万籁俱寂,环境优雅,真是一个修心养性的好地方。周边的枫树很多,待到金秋时节,红叶满山,不知是何等漂亮?
在归来途中,无意中发现路旁一个小庙,非常雅致,停车进去看看。这是一个叫做法金刚院的寺庙,据记载,最早可追朔到平安时代(794-1192年)初期,原来是一位大臣的别墅,1279年改为寺庙。它是以净土式庭园闻名遐迩,现为国家特别名胜。寺内景观别致,刚一进入庭园,首先映入眼帘的是一株盛开的樱花,其树冠的很大,而且形状极佳。院内还有很多植物,一看就是精心设计和打理。顺着小径绕池塘边,走到池塘对面,樱花、庙宇映在水面,使这小小的i法金刚院,更加古朴妩媚。
晚上,我们去米其林三星餐厅-千花料理用餐,这里也是提前一个多月预定的。千花料理不太好找,虽然在闹市街道上,但是门面太小,只有一个灯上有千花的标示。通过狭窄的甬道,来到门前,杜进去后,又返回来,说预定的时间还不到需等待半小时。好在时间不长,待到再次进入,受到热情欢迎。我们预订的是包房,不是厨房边的座位。半老徐娘的老板娘很客气,简单介绍用餐情况。
这里的“板前割烹”指使用各式各样烹调方法制作出的日本菜。“割烹”则泛指由专任料理师(也就是板前)亲自在餐柜前为客人操刀。此外,板前还亲自掌握进货,准备食材,还要拥有精湛的刀工手法,并精通各种日本蒸煮煎炒烘烤炸等料理方式
这里与素斋不同,是以应时蔬菜为主,河鱼海鲜为辅,绝无红肉,调味清减细腻,强调食材质地的本来滋味。一共有十一道菜,开胃饮料过后即开始上菜。
总之吃完后,感觉不如昨天的闲卧庵的怀石料理性价比高。虽然有些海鲜,但味道有一些吃不习惯。做工精细,味道一般。饭后,老板(厨师)和老板娘将我们一直送到大街上,多次鞠躬致谢,弄的我们很不习惯。
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这是一个庵,就像一个住家
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平安神宫的大门前
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京都图书馆
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展览馆
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看着里面的湖水和景致,感觉一定不错,没时间进去,很遗憾。
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平安神宫
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蚕豆、青菜
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八爪鱼
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青菜天福罗
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竹笋
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鲷鱼
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小菜
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鳕鱼
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果汁