清晨走出酒店,酒店门前就有樱花盛开,过道就是一条废弃的铁道,两边樱花绽放,可惜铁道太宽,樱花没有在空中连接。有很多情侣在拍婚纱照,感觉这里人好多,就直接去京都名刹南禅寺。南禅寺距离酒店很近,穿过隧道,几分钟就到了。都说京都的寺庙很多,这次真的领略到了,只南禅寺就有很多庙宇。南禅寺是京都著名的樱花观赏地,本来古色古香的寺庙,在樱花掩映下更加古朴典雅。高大的三门楼,可以购票登楼,400円/每人,脱鞋上去可以鸟瞰远处京都和寺庙全景。
近中午,杜来接我们去银阁寺,将车停放在哲学之道旁边,哲学之道是以日本一名哲学家命名。道中间是一条人工水渠,水渠两边樱花盛开,形成一条樱花隧道,樱花映红了水面,这里也是京都知名赏樱地。这里游人很多,都在樱花树下,水渠两边行走,道路的尽头就是银阁寺。与之连接处的道路边全是商铺,看到牛肉包子的宣传照片很诱人,肉多汁浓。没犹豫就买了一个,真是上当受骗,全然与照片不符,肉是寥寥无几,而且不但没有汁,还干的很。没想到日本人也会虚假宣传。不过看到日本人做的咸菜非常好看,五颜六色很有食欲,看看算了,不一定符合咱们品味。
银阁寺需购票进入,每人500円,游人很多,按次序进入。一进入寺庙,首先就会看见被称为“银沙滩”的沙石园。白沙象征着大海,用砂砾制造出的纹理则代表万顷波涛。这些沙砾造景是银阁寺最特别之处,也是日本庭园枯山水艺术的经典景观,据说这样的设计是为了在满月之夜将月光返照入阁。银沙滩旁是寺庙的正殿,在其推拉门上显示了一些画作,但不能入内。银阁寺内樱花较少,但绿树成荫,环境优雅静谧,亭台楼阁很别致。游人顺标志行走,基本围着寺庙转一圈,其中有一些小景点,大约30分钟就随着人流走出寺庙。
中午已过,找了多家饭店全部座无虚席,需等位,最少的要等近一小时。最后,已经饥肠辘辘,只好在平野神社附近一家叫做山元面藏快餐店用餐,在这里也等了近30分钟才进入餐位。这里是以套餐为主,每人一个平托盘,上面内容丰富,汤、菜、饭、面很精致。可能也是饿了的原因,感觉很好吃。
走出饭店,对面就是平野神社。一进入寺庙,樱花树下全部是商铺,旁边就是聚餐的人群。当时也有点后悔,如果在樱花下,和日本人一样露天餐一下,感受嘈杂而热闹的气氛,应该别有一番韵味。这里樱花很多,但游人更多,只有庙宇旁边没有商铺,但是人头攒动,拥挤不堪。也是稍作观赏,随着涌动的人潮,走出平野神社。
金阁寺是世界文化遗产,正式名为鹿苑寺,因为庙宇上包了金箔,大家都叫做金阁寺。它是日本国宝级建筑,一般到京都的游客,都到这里游览。门票每人400円,这张门票很特别,就像一道神符。进去后首先就看到金阁寺,倒映在镜湖池中,这是京都代表性的景观。在最佳拍摄地,游人很多,想拍到理想的照片,真的很不容易。金阁寺内部不允许参观,游览路线是围着镜湖和金阁寺转一圈。这里的园林景观不如银阁寺,但包着金箔的金阁寺确实很漂亮,非常值得一看。
朋友杜告诉我们,今晚提前预定了到“闲卧庵”用餐。一听说在古寺庙里用餐,而且是只有京都才能体验到的稀有机会,就一直非常好奇与期待。
闲卧庵本身是一个古寺庙,建于1671年,闲卧庵出名的是它悠久的历史,还有正宗的京都普茶怀石料理。
汽车行驶在狭窄的街道,停在一个朴素门楼内,白墙黛瓦,几株绽放不同颜色花的树,旁边地面摆了一片石刻佛像。进门后就会发现别有洞天,园内樱花和其它花将寺庙装扮的花园一样。正面是大殿,里面供奉着神像,香烟缭绕。大殿的两侧是饭厅包间,先脱鞋,进入面向庭院的纯日本式的小包间,打开推拉门可以观赏院内的樱花和夜景。房间装饰具有民族特色,侧面是一组雕塑,上面挂着闲卧寺横幅。原来以为像日本人那样跪着吃饭,还有些担心不习惯,到房间一看才放心。
晚餐在18点准时开始,餐点像西餐一样,一道一道的上,共计十多道。每道菜味道各不相同,如果不看详单,根本不知道用什么食材制作。但是,每道菜皆是精品,简直就像艺术品,精致的使人不忍下口。
时间大约两小时结束,到最后,都感到吃的很撑,后悔中午吃的太晚了。
这个“禅意素斋”,也叫做京普茶怀石料理,是巧妙地使用各种健康素食材,精心烹调而成,就是很讲究的斋饭。
不过能在这寺庙的庭院深处,如此僻静的空间享用禅意素斋,还真得感谢朋友杜。没有他提前预定,就体会不到如此的素美味和在古庙里用餐的经历。
饭后,去二条城看夜樱,二条城是京都晚上观看樱花的最佳地点,在车上路过时,就看到排很多人,犹豫中决定去看一看。到门口一看人们都在排队,只好往队尾走,走了将近有5分钟,才看到队尾。当时又犹豫到底排不排?最后还是决定排队进去,看看为什么这么多人排队?一公里长的队伍,但是秩序良好,前面有售票口和多个自动售票机。一般都是一家人在排队,实际购票人少,所以很快。
夜餐的樱花在灯光的烘托下,较之白天的红粉佳人又多了几分妩媚与淡雅,赏花的人置身花海里,增添了梦幻般的美丽。
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铁架子上是一些模型
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每个白牌下就是一个庙宇,够多了吧。
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哲学之道
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银沙滩
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快餐食品也这么精致
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金阁寺图
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闲卧庵
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雕塑的石龙
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抹茶,不太好喝
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小点心
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想象不到这是面条
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素寿司,绿色上面的金箔可以吃
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真正的花,后来在超市看到有卖的。
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象豆腐,但不是
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菠菜
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不是肉,上面黑色是海藻
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饮料
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豆腐
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幻灯打在墙上,人们都在这里照像
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感觉排了一公里的队,还值得的。现场的景观,最好的摄影家也无法复制的。
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