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比起其他历史名城,琅勃拉邦实在小得可怜。城中心的街道两旁散布着法国殖民时期留下的建筑,从王宫博物馆走到街道的尽头,也就需要20分钟,两旁的小洋楼是梦想中的房子,阳台上繁花锦簇。
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主干道附近的小巷,用小彩旗装饰着,狗吠,鸡鸣,风铃声……宁静得可以从空气中清晰地分辨出这些小小的声源。这里集中力琅勃拉邦的精华部分,三角梅和鸡蛋花开满墙头,古老的寺庙与浪漫的法式建筑分布在街道两旁,意外地和谐相宜,坐在洋楼里喝咖啡,食下午茶,不时,穿着僧袍的小沙弥走过,东西方的文化如此暧昧地融合到一起,便是琅勃拉邦的独特魅力。
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被放在院子门口的天竺葵盆栽,被遗忘的椅子,墙壁上的涂鸦,猫咪在树下机灵地溜走。黄色的殖民建筑异常显目,搭配浅蓝色的窗户,有露天的阳台和回旋的木楼梯,门前花园一大朵一大朵的绣球花开得丰盛,棕榈树影影绰绰印在墙上,不禁想像出百年前的人在这里走动,透过窗看外面街景的画面。
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琅勃拉邦像被打开了静音键,即使是车辆来往、孩子放学、夜市初上,也都安静得不行,相比之下,还不及蝉鸣的声音大。妇人们在树下自顾自地编织着。
遇到小学放学,孩子们在操场里奔跑玩耍,相互推搡拥抱,更有年龄稍大点的孩童,在黄沙地里踢球,满头大汗,有模有样。
缅栀子的白花香气的愈加浓烈。老挝将鸡蛋花视为国花,也被佛教寺院定为“五树六花”之一。
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随意进入一间临街的寺庙,年轻的小和尚们正在清扫庭院,爬上梯子,修剪树叶,他们看起来朝气蓬勃,青春洋溢,多数时候也会玩闹嬉戏,和年轻的少年并无分别。
与静穆的寺院氛围形成了巨大的反差,这才是真实且平凡的僧侣生活。庭院中心的大殿,檐下挂着风铃,一阵午后的清风穿过,夹着野雀啾啾的轻啼,在大殿前的台阶上坐下,大喝一口在街角买的鲜榨芒果沙冰。
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小沙弥们正在打扫庭院,不时嬉笑打闹,不过十几岁的年纪,豁然明朗。
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我在这里。
琅勃拉邦。